Robi
Good morning,
I own a feathercraft craft 1957 Ranger IV which were made after war in 1946-1969.
The gents that made these watercraft originally made aircraft and used their skills from assembly line from aircraft to watercraf.
original manufacturing started in Atlanta. in/around 1956-1959 they had a plant in Lake Erie, ONT made by fleet.
So I’ve been restoring my watercraft for sometime now and been seeking some material and wondering if you sell modified brazier rivets, rivet set, bucking bars, cleco’s and such?
I appreciate your time.
Curtis
lake cowichan
Hello Curtis. Sounds like a neat project you have going on there. I don't sell supplies but there are several decent suppliers online if you do a quick search. Good luck with your search.
Robi
ive actually had a lot of problems finding everything locally or in Canada, would you share some information what companies?
thank you
I am not sure about your modified braziers. I only know of actual braziers so it isn't likely you will find those or the set for them. I think your best bet in Canada for tools and other hardware will be Aircraft Spruce. I usually end up going across the border for many of my aircraft tools: Brown Tools, MSC, Yardstore, etc. Hope that helps.
Thank you I’ll start there I do appreciate it!
do you know modified brazier 3/16” is exactly the same as 5/32” brazier. The 3/16” head is modified to be same size as 5/32” but as you are aware after taking rivet out the whole will increase in size there for we would use a 3/16” rive. If that makes sense.. now obviously I’m not a pro and very new at this but I’m trying:)
thx again Curtis!
That's all new to me. A 5/32 rivet is just that and a 3/16 rivet is 3/16. Also, you are saying head size but in fact rivets are measured by the shank size and I have no idea how the rivets were modified. You would have to compare them to actual Braziers to know for sure what you need to do to modify your replacements but in the aircraft world rivets are never modified unless they will be going back for re-heat treatment.
It you look and compare a modified brazier to a brazier in a sizing chart it make sense to a experiences guy like you.
robi
sorry forgot to say the tool set for them is the same as head is virtually the same. So a standard 5/32” brazier tool set works on a 3/16” modified brazier head..
when there’s 2000 rivets with 5/32 heads and u need to replace say 5 and want them to look the same you’d use a 3/16” hole with modified head to match the 5/32 look/size. Hope that makes sense I’m very new at this too haha
Why do you need to change size at all? Usually you just take one out and put the replacement in of the same size unless you have damaged all the holes. If that's the case then generally you can upsize in the field but it's not something you want to do a lot of. Most specs allow 1 in 10 rivets to be oversize. In manufacturing it is different. Any hole that needs to be oversized will need approval from Quality. You obviously don't need approval since you aren't working to any spec so you can do whatever you want as long as you think it won't fail.
@robibada
I need water tight that’s the reason for up sizing
Ok. Now I see what you are trying to compare. Yes, the head will be very close, about 1 thou difference. However, the shank is a different size so you would need to upsize the hole and depending on the structure that might not give you enough edge distance for strength of the material or may be too strong and the material would fail before rivets pop out. Rivets are used very purposefully to attain proper bearing and shear strength in relation to the material used. Also, if the material is thin you may end up with a lot of distortion trying to get those bigger rivets into there. It can all get pretty messy pretty quick... That modified rivet would have been done for a certain aircraft company spec for aerodynamic purposes. You better make sure they are the same alloy also as there are many different alloys and a difference in strength characteristics and also how hard they will be to drive not to mention if they require annealing prior to driving. The good news for you is that if they fail you won't be at 30,000 feet. My guess is that in a boat they were wet installed also...
All correct! we would use 3/16” because hole gets drilled out a size larger for water seal to be good.. but yes absolutely not 10000 feet up lol
i believe 1100-F rivet is sufficient, but not 100%
An F rivet is a steel rivet. An 1100 is an aluminum rivet which is pure aluminum, not an alloy so very weak. Usually used on cosmetic stuff... or sometimes cowlings.
Just looked on Google and I found 1100F rivets as you say. That is new to me... but they do say they are weak so I'm not sure what the F signifies but the 1100 is pure aluminum. In my day 1100 rivets were called A rivets. F were steel, and so on... The F may signify as Fabricated meaning no special treatment applied for strength...
@robibada
1100 is just what I thought I’d need thx for info